Cozumel’s North Shore: A Guide to the Zona Hotelera Norte

By Kelley

Cozumel’s North Shore — the Zona Hotelera Norte — is the stretch of coast that runs north from town along Avenida Rafael E. Melgar. It’s the quieter side of the island: a handful of small hotels and condo buildings, a paved seafront path, and calm, clear water on the leeward side where the sunsets happen. If you’re picturing a wide sandy resort beach, that’s not this coast. What it is instead is an easy, unhurried base about ten minutes from downtown, with the water right at your door.

What the North Shore is like

The shoreline here is limestone shelf, not soft sand — low rock and ironshore at the water’s edge, with sandy patches and beach clubs that put in ladders and docks for easy entry. Because it faces west, into the lee of the island, the water is usually flat and glassy in the morning and the sun sets straight out over it in the evening. It’s residential and low-key: you’re more likely to share the path with someone walking a dog than with a tour group. Town, with its restaurants, dive shops, shops and the main plaza, is about 10 minutes away by car.

Getting into town, and getting around

Taxis are the normal way in and out. There’s no meter system on Cozumel, so agree the fare with the driver before you get in — a taxi from the North Shore to downtown is around $100 MXN (roughly US$5–6), and that’s a flat fare for one to four people, not per person. Drivers working the hotel zone will sometimes quote much more, so it helps to state the local rate up front. Taxis wait more or less all day just south of the condos by Hotel B, and the taxi dispatch number is in your welcome information if you’d rather call one.

The nicer option, when you have time, is to walk or cycle. A paved pedestrian and bike path runs the full length of the North Shore along the seafront — flat, separated from the road, and genuinely pleasant. It’s about 25–30 minutes on foot into the edge of downtown, or a few easy minutes to anywhere along this stretch of coast.

Where to eat nearby

Hotel B Cozumel is right next door, about a three-minute walk south. Its restaurant is a good spot for breakfast, and there’s yoga on Saturday mornings. For dinner, head north about 1.5 km — a 20-minute walk on the path or a short 3–4 minute taxi — to the cluster around Playa Azul: Buccanos for a nice sit-down dinner (it’s a beach club by day), and La Cabaña del Pescador, known to everyone as the Lobster House, a long-running lobster-only institution. The Key Lime Pie Factory is right there at the Lobster House for dessert to go. Days and hours shift with the season, so it’s worth checking locally before you set out.

The water: beaches, swimming and the limestone shelf

Entry to the water is over limestone shelf and ironshore, so water shoes are useful, and the easiest spots are the ladders and docks at the beach clubs. Playa Las Rocas, about 600 m south toward town, and the beach at Playa Azul to the north are both straightforward places to get in. Once you’re past the shelf the water is calm, clear and shallow for a good way out — good for swimming and for snorkeling straight off the shore.

Snorkeling and shore diving from the North Shore

You can snorkel and shore-dive directly from this coast, and it’s rewarding, but it is open water with real boat and jet-ski traffic — this is not a substitute for a guided boat trip if you’re not a confident, experienced swimmer, and you should always go with a buddy.

A common route: enter off the Nah Ha diving board and head north. The bottom is a shallow reef that acts as a nursery for fish and invertebrates — lots of small life close in. From December into early February you have a good chance of seeing spotted eagle rays passing through. Tow a marked surface float or dive buoy the entire time so boats can see you; the traffic along here is constant. Plan your exit before you start: over the rocks at Playa Las Rocas, just past Tequila Beach Club, is the usual one, or continue to a hotel beach further down the coast if the current is carrying you south. Never exit onto private property. If the current is running hard, or you’re not sure, don’t go — book a guided dive instead.

Where to stay on the North Shore

If you want to be on this coast, Nah Ha Condominium 101 is an oceanfront three-bedroom condo right here in the Zona Hotelera Norte, at the water’s edge with the pool and the diving board out front. If you’d rather be in the middle of downtown, within walking distance of the plaza and the ferry, there’s Cool Caribbean Views, and for a full house in a quiet residential neighborhood, Casa Bohemia.